Human civilisations depend on seeds, so do plants and animals. Seeds shows how we are preserving our ecological heritage. The Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food have been awarded a Gourmand Award for excellence – 2020. The award is for excellence across the series, and congratulations are due to the editor, Mark McWilliams, and all the contributors. The Proceedings are published annually, and are a collection of papers from the previous years OxfordSymposium on Food. They are a mark of excellence in the food history world.
Foreword
Mark McWilliams 9
Plenary Papers
Svalbard Global Seed Bank: Noah’s Ark for Seeds in the Arctic
Åsmund Asdal 11
Saving the Future – Conservation in Action: The Millennium Seed Bank of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
Elinor Breman 26
Muriel Howorth and the Atomic Gardening Society: Writing Food Futures
Molly MacVeagh 36
Symposium Papers
Reclaiming Diversity of Taste
Isaura Andaluz 57
Eating Life: Seed, Germ, and Dietary Philosophy in the German Lebensreform Movement
Volker Bach 78
The Naked Barley Thorebyg (Hordeum vulgare) in Traditional Farmhouse Ale Brewing in Norway
Hans Olav Bråtå 89
Seeds in the Story of the Garden of Eden and the Myth of the Mediterranean Diet
Adrian Bregazzi
99
A Matter of Life and Death — From Grano dei Morti and Cuccìa to Pastiera: The Symbolism of Wheat Berries in Southern Italian Cookery And Its Ancient Greek (and Indo-European?) Origins
Anthony F. Buccini 110
Seeds
6
Turning Native: The Sesame Seed and ‘Japaneseness’
Voltaire Cang 121
"How Coffee Killed A Town: The Rise and Fall of Coffee in Lipa, Batangas in the
Nineteenth Century
Bel Castro 131
From Peasant Food to Posh Ingredient: A History of Buckwheat in Brittany
Mary Margaret Chappell 141
What Is a ‘Good’ Seed?
Renata Christen 148
Seeding the Future - Curry, Sausages, and Tea in Hong Kong and Macau
Mukta Das 158
Preparing Seeds for Palatability: Chicken Guts and Chefs’ Tools
Len Fisher 169
Fenugreek: Seed of a Forgotten History of North Africa
Anny Gaul 178
A Land of Wheat: In Search of the Lost Grain of Israel / Palestine
B.Z. Goldberg and Ronit Vered 188
The Long and Simple History of the Dibble and Its Cousins
Peter Hertzmann 198
“The answers to our ancestors’ prayers;” Seeding a Movement for Health and Culture
Elizabeth Hoover and Sean Sherman 212
I Pomodori Puri: Fruits of Empowerment in Deledda’s The Church of Solitude
Eilis Kierans 223
The Seed of Hope: Acorns from Famine Food to Delicacy in European History
Andrea Maraschi 232
Sacralized Grains: A Study of the Popular Diffusion of Maize Culinary Preparations
Based on its Ritualistic Use in the Americas
Sandra Melchior, Marcella Sulis, and Carolina Sulis 243
Seeds
7
Bittersweet Coffee and The Seeds of Hope: European Immigrants’ Memories of
Vegetable Gardens in Early Twentieth-Century São Paulo, Brazil
Sandra Mian 253
Illegal seeds – Nowadays Taste Doesn´t Matter
Katharina Mojescik 260
Growing and Eating God: Tracking the Mental Image of Wheat in Traditional
Romanian Communities
Raluca Parfentie 272
American Approaches to Removing Seeds from Fruit
Jeffrey Rubel 291
Chocolate and Vanilla: Seeds of Taste
Kathryn E. Sampeck 300
Seed Work and the Revival of a Famed Culinary Crop System
David Shields 308
Traditional Crops: The Case of Bambara Groundnut
Hanna Simonsen 318
Zoochory
Ray Sokolov 327
Revisiting the Acorn Eaters: the case of the Arkadians in Greek antiquity
Corey Straub 337
Amaranth: Food of the Gods, or Seed of the Devil
David C. Sutton 346
The English Quest for Novelty: Kitchen Garden Seeds from Abroad from the
Sixteenth to the Early Eighteenth Centuries
Malcolm Thick 359
Seed-Time: Sex and Sustainable Dining at the Fin de Siècle
Kate Hudson 371
Seeds
8
“Throw away your gogo seed”: The Centrality of Traditional Seed in KwaZulu-Natal,
South Africa
Jaci van Niekerk and Rachel Wynberg 379
Mustard in the Talmudic Literature
Susan Weingarten 388
Karakilçik Buğdayi and Its Promises for a Better Food World
Zafar Yenal 398"