Patternmaking for Womenswear. vol. 2
Constructing Base Patterns - Bodices, Sleeves and Collars
Constructing Base Patterns
Published by: Hoaki Books
Developed by fashion designer and teacher Dominique Pellen, this patternmaking method is explained in this book in a simple, clear, precise, step-by-step manner, covering the information necessary for creating different bodices, sleeves and collars for womenswear, from the very simple to more complex ones.
This book contains the perfect method for creating base patterns for bodices, sleeves and collars for womenswear for different styles and designs, explained in a simple, clear, precise, step-by-step manner. It covers the information necessary for drafting flat patterns for nearly every style and can easily be adapted to all skill levels. Flat-pattern drafting is the process of creating volume from a 2D surface by outlining a pattern on paper using specific body measurements to which ease is added according to the desired look of the garment. Developed by fashion designer and teacher Dominique Pellen after countless years of experience in the studio and in the classroom, the method for the creation and adaptation of flat patterns shown here is suitable for a wide audience, including professionals, students and basically anyone who loves to sew. The book has already been used for many years at professional schools and institutes, where Pellen’s method has proven to be reliable and foolproof. This expanded and updated volume on bodices, sleeves and collars is the second in a series of guides that will explore the exciting world of garment-making, a gateway designed to help fashion design students and fashion lovers from all skill levels understand and design patterns on their own.
<p>BASE PATTERNS FOR BODICES</p>
<p>Measurements for making the bodice base pattern<br /> Bodice base pattern<br /> Dart pivoting:<br /> Dart pivoting and dart rotation (bodice ending at the waist)<br /> Transferring a little dart value into the armhole, with sleeve<br /> Dividing a shoulder dart to create a side dart<br /> Multiple shoulder dart division to create five small darts<br /> Dividing a waist dart to create three darts in the same place<br /> Dividing a waist dart to create three asymmetrical darts on the neckline<br /> Distancing darts from the bust point<br /> Incurved or broken darts<br /> Converting darts to gathers<br /> Dart pivoting and dart rotation (full bodice ending at large hip level)<br /> Shoulder blade dart manipulation (to back waist of bodice)<br /> Five-piece bodice<br /> Bodice base with two front and back waist darts<br /> Classical blouse from the bodice base<br /> Grandfather-shirt from the bodice base<br /> Raglan construction from the bodice and short sleeve base patterns<br /> </p>
<p>Short sleeve base pattern<br /> How to flare the short sleeve base:<br /> Balloon sleeve<br /> Puffed sleeve<br /> Butterfly sleeve<br /> Glove sleeve, true bias and straight grain<br /> Leg-of-mutton sleeve<br /> Classical blouse sleeve with added cuff<br /> Shaped cuff<br /> Simplified blouse sleeve with straight sleeve end<br /> </p>
<p>Closed blouse collar with collar stand<br /> Closed blouse collar<br /> Open blouse collar<br /> Base for Peter Pan, Roll and Bertha collars:<br /> Peter Pan collar<br /> Roll collar<br /> Bertha collar<br /> Separate raised collar with an open neckline<br /> Flared high collar<br /> Medicis collar<br /> Sailor collar<br /> Funnel neck<br /> Cowl neck</p>